Baghdad rewards the curious. Start on a Friday morning at al-Mutanabbi Street, where booksellers lay out their stock along the pavement and the Shabandar Café has been serving tea since 1917.
Where to stay
Karrada and Jadriya offer comfortable hotels close to the river and the best restaurants.

What to eat
Masgouf is the classic — carp split and grilled upright around a wood fire. Follow it with kleicha, date-filled pastries, and a glass of sweet black tea.



